Inside G! Festival: where the Faroe Islands play by their own rules

Half Danish, half Faroese artist Jens L Thomsen’s career is dedicated to music composition and production. A key figure in Nordic music circles, a member of electronic duo ORKA, Thomsen also arranged the sonics for an installation, the subterranean infrastructure of a tunnel.

A 12-kilometre subsea tunnel, Eysturoyartunnilin opened in 2019. Tackling modernity and post-war freedom, ÆÐR is the name of the eight-minute-long composition installed. A unique sound concept, it’s a concoction of science, technology and art. When tuned in, Thomsen’s EP is broadcast around the clock on FM radio for every driver and passenger passing through.

Far from the average tourist sight, the tunnel installation is memorable in what feels like the most dazzling nation, so worthy of a check-in. Especially, if the destination is the seaside village of Syðrugøta, or Gøta as it’s known, which has a population of 500 (Faroe Islands population is about 56,000). Gøta is a place where bright-green grass and sheep both come in vast quantities.

Rugged but neat, the landscape is easy on the eye, and it’s where the annual G! Festival happens. A truly independent affair, it means everything to the locals and attracts music fans from Scandinavia, other parts of Europe and artists from around the world.

As you will have guessed, G! Festival is no conventional party. Its reluctance to expand in size is a strength; the ever-expanding music curation is another. While local acts remain the dedicated centre of attention, the pull towards palpable international talent has never been stronger.

This year sees international acts that stretch as far as Mexico in the form of Orkesta Mendoza, whose “indie mambo” style is a hot ticket. There’s singer songwriter Fantastic Negrito and Printz Board & the Butter Funk Family, both from the US, as well as Mali rock band Tamikrest.

Using the beach as the main venue area makes the music discovery aspect even more enticing. How about watching a concert from one of the irresistible hot tubs on the beach? This is actually doable. The complete absence of hotels in the village creates an opportunity to problem-solve as houses, schools and community spaces accommodate guests, instead.

The ambition is unwavering. The schedule presents some of the best names in Faroese music, emerging and more established artists. Contrary to many larger outdoor music events in Europe, there is no focus on big headliners, it’s possible that headlining means something else entirely in the context of G! Festival. Glenn Larsen, Head of Music Export, offers an interesting take on this, when he playfully suggests that “the whole experience is the headliner.”

The idea of taking an experiential approach to a lineup, not stare blindly at individual stages and specific artists, is a common thread. Being among the biggest acts does not necessarily mean owning the best slots, on the largest stage. On the contrary. As seen, the internationally acclaimed artist Eivør plays a wonderful set in the afternoon. Hardly a prime-time slot.

Variety is the spice… Praised by Iggy Pop Joe, known for their political agenda, Joe & The Shitboys play Sandurin, the largest stage. The punks pull out all the stops to produce a tight, energy fuelled performance. If the crowd looks small at the beginning, the same cannot be said by the end. Earlier in the day, Copenhagen’s Danish, Turkish and Kurdish band AySay give us a taste of their eclectic style. The songs are a genre-bending take on Anatolian folk and Nordic electronica.

Norwegian electropop singer Moyka is here to showcase the sonics that make up her art. If the Hallingdal born musician’s songs echo artists like Sigrid, Aurora and Röyksopp, the vibe of this set is hers alone. Striking the right balance between raucous electronic beats and breezy vocals is a gift.  

G! Festival is fresh and self-reliant, and Jens L Thomsen reminds me it’s far from a new event. Clickhaze are closely linked to the origins. Starting in 2002, the inspiration came after a visit to Denmark, a trip to Roskilde Festival, which would inspire, and ultimately help shape the live music culture.

The supergroup comprises of key players from the scene. Their first live appearance in 23 years, it is a moment of anticipation, and it proves pivotal. The crowds know the instrumentation and the arrangements in detail. It’s a concert during which the entire audience gathers to absorb the live spectacle, in real time.   

Centred around shared values such as community, equality and collaboration, the values are as prominent now as they have been for years. Supporting one another is the norm. “It’s always been like that,” decides Thomsen. “We help each other out; we don’t really compete.”

What’s happened over the years is that instrumentalists dedicate more time and energy. They start to play and appear in each other’s bands, and the lineup reflects it. Clickhaze, along with many others, exemplify this collaborative pattern.  

Meanwhile, Americana-leaning Marianna Winter is present. The Faroese-American musician grasps the extraordinary nature of the event, why it means so much to the performing artists and the punters who return year after year, none of this is coincidental. It’s her favourite Faroese music event.

A standalone few days in the calendar, to an artist it’s a motivation to be the best that you can be. For instance, Winter does not usually wear nails but says she feels like doing something extra. “When I put on my makeup, I do my hair and get into the outfits, I feel myself stepping into the performer, not the everyday Marianna. It’s not an alter ego; it’s the performer version.”

An admirer of G! Festival, she credits it with offering the most culturally diverse lineup in the nation. She came across many of her favourite new artists here. “It’s one of those weekends where you meet everybody. All your friends.” The National Day is at the end of July. “This is a warmup,” she adds. “It’s a perfect time of year for the local population.”

Winter’s appearance at Spæliplássíó – the name of the stage translates as Playground – is an intimate, thoughtfully composed set of mesmerising moments. Taken from the guitarist’s album The More You Know from earlier this year, the reflective mood strikes a deep chord with the crowd. There is no doubt about Winter’s potential as an artist, she’s just getting started, with more to come.

The ability to reimagine a casual space, indoors or outdoors, and use it as a venue, knows no bounds. Tunghoyrt, a local punk four-piece, surprise when they appear to play on a boat. It’s a blistering performance that kicks off when the thought of a chaotic gig could not be further from the mind. They are a raw presence with attitude, firing on all cylinders to deliver something pulsating the audience can to take away.

To fully appreciate the magic Syðrugøta fosters is straightforward. A place of idyl, unfiltered nature and beauty, G! Festival is the cherry on the cake. An impeccable blend in with natural surroundings, it’s a phenomenal route to discovering the distinct music scene that continues to unfold in the midst of Faroese scenery, along with wider culture.