Diesel and END. bring back archive classics in a tribute to underground music 

When Glenn Martens joined Diesel as creative director in 2020, the Belgian designer quickly put his love of music at the forefront of the brand. Projects like NTS x Diesel TRACKS have celebrated this, pairing global events with renowned DJs. His latest collaboration, however, places style front and centre. Teaming up with streetwear retailer END., Diesel has tapped its archives, reissuing five designs from 1989 to 1992 that capture the energy and attitude of underground music culture.

The capsule collection launched in Manchester with a night that brought the archive to life on the dance floor. From the runway to the rave, Diesel splashed jackets and durable workwear with motocross-inspired graphics, translating its archive pieces into a bold, kinetic energy made for movement and the music-filled night.

Setting the tone of the launch was Leeroy Thornhill of The Prodigy and Phil Hartnoll of Orbital. “I think they’re a little bit more polite,” Hartnoll explained when asked about DJing for a fashion crowd. “They always keep a little room around them, whereas ravers get really into it.”

Orbital wore the 2-in-1 interchangeable jacket from the collection. The utilitarian design, featuring a removable vest and motorsports-influenced graphics, feels just as relevant today as it did when it was first released in 1992.

Meanwhile, Leeroy Thornhill took to the decks wearing the long-sleeve shirt from the collection. Its light fade and bold sleeve graphics move with him, and the relaxed cut perfectly matches the energy of the night and the underground music that inspired the capsule.

With the nostalgia-fuelled launch in full swing, we asked Thornhill which track from the era still hits differently today. “Lil Louis “French Kiss”. To this day, there hasn’t been a track that stood out like that with the way the tempo changes. I love playing it now for young people and seeing that reaction that I first had when I first heard it. It’s timeless music. That’s the thing with electronic music.”

Phil Hartnoll reflected on one track in particular: “There’s a song I think of by Phil Kieran, My House Is Your House. It seems a very friendly, Diesel theme tune to me.”

The capsule itself balances nostalgia with modern versatility. A standout green army-style nylon bomber jacket combines rugged utility with motorsports graphics, while workwear trousers from 1989 (cut in a relaxed fit) offer a lived-in, personalised character that rewards wear and movement. Together, the pieces exemplify Diesel’s mastery of streetwear and workwear, translating archive heritage into contemporary style.

For Thornhill, the collection recalled more than just a sound—it was an attitude. “I think it’s the attitude that needs to come back. People being open and friendly with each other,” he said.

Discover the Diesel x END. Collection at endclothing.com.